4.72 of 5 stars
Five Ten - Aleon - Climbing shoes tested
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Reviews overview
Disadvantages
Recommended use
Praise vs. Criticism
Good shoe, lacks longevity
These shoes run small. I bought 0.5 of a size above my street shoe and they fit very tight out of the box. Took around 6 sessions to break in. They were particularly tight in the heal region, with quite a bit of space in the toe box. After breaking them in they fit very well for a few weeks. However, the heel region seemed to stretch a lot more than the rest of the shoe, becoming a little bit loose when heel hooking.
I exclusively used these shoes for bouldering in a gym. They. performed very well, especially on small edges and overhangs.
Major downside is that they are not very durable. The rubber on the toe box began to split after 2.5 months, climbing 3-4 times per week. This may not be as much of an issue for more experienced climbers with quieter feet. However, given the price point, I expected they would hold up for a little longer, especially given that they were only used indoors.
Another issue I encountered was following washing. I hand washed the shoes in lukewarm water and afterwards, the pigment in the dye began to run, staining my feet.
Overall would give them a 6/10.
Fit: 6/10
Performance: 9/10
Longevity: 3/10
- Advantages
- Versatile
- High edge stability
- Robust
- Good grip
- Recommended use
- Bouldering
- Indoor climbing
- Sport climbing
What do you think about that?
This is what other customers say:
These shoes run small. I bought 0.5 of a size above my street shoe and they fit very tight out of the box. Took around 6 sessions to break in. They were particularly tight in the heal region, with quite a bit of space in the toe box. After breaking them in they fit very well for a few weeks. However, the heel region seemed to stretch a lot more than the rest of the shoe, becoming a little bit loose when heel hooking.
I exclusively used these shoes for bouldering in a gym. They. performed very well, especially on small edges and overhangs.
Major downside is that they are not very durable. The rubber on the toe box began to split after 2.5 months, climbing 3-4 times per week. This may not be as much of an issue for more experienced climbers with quieter feet. However, given the price point, I expected they would hold up for a little longer, especially given that they were only used indoors.
Another issue I encountered was following washing. I hand washed the shoes in lukewarm water and afterwards, the pigment in the dye began to run, staining my feet.
Overall would give them a 6/10.
Fit: 6/10
Performance: 9/10
Longevity: 3/10
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- Advantages
- Versatile
- High edge stability
- Robust
- Good grip
-
- Recommended use
- Bouldering
- Indoor climbing
- Sport climbing
I had my original five ten Niad VCS shoes for over a year, they finally gave up and I thought I woudl try something new.. But these have lasted only a few months, I climb 2 times a week at most!!! Bonkers.
Not happy with the durability on these...
Would recommend a different shoe!
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- Advantages
- Good grip
- High edge stability
-
- Recommended use
- Bouldering
- Sport climbing
I used the Aleon for 3~6 months before wearing through.
The shoe is good for bouldering and small edges/smearing.
Excels in competition style climbing.
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- Advantages
- High edge stability
- Good fit
- Good grip
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- Recommended use
- Bouldering
First Shoe - Bought Size 12 - Normal Shoe size 11
The shoe overall took a while to break in, even after a few sessions and warm showers to make them fit to my feet. Even after multiple sessions straps had to be on the front velcro to prevent air pocket under feet when loosely strapped on, proceeding in farting sound which was annoying.
After 4-5 months small hole appeared on right shoe at the toe. I've seen pictures of other climbers with similar problem. I am a beginner, only climbed for 8 months, level ranging around 6b to 7a. Hole may of came from me booting the wall a few times on accident so could be either me or the shoes fault. However, my friends who i started climbing with, their shoes have lasted atleast a couple months longer than my aleons so take that as you will.
Overall, quite happy with the shoe, was somewhat comfortable once 'broken in', performed well however, was a shame that they didn't last that long.
Again I am a beginner, so take my advice with a grain of salt, moving onto skwama's next, hope this helps :)
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- Advantages
- High edge stability
- Good grip
-
- Disadvantages
- Not comfortable
-
- Recommended use
- Indoor climbing
- Sport climbing
- Bouldering
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