Arc'teryx - Alpha SV Jacket - Waterproof jacket tested

I bought this jacket a few years ago. I'm from Vancouver and have been using Arcteryx gear for at least 20 years. I never had a complaint before. I didn't mind paying a bit more for quality, as the stuff was sooo durable and the customer service was incredible.

The quality of their gear now though, and I've bought a few grands worth in the last few years, is nothing like it was. What a shame. Even their top end gear like the alpha SV started to delaminate after only a few years of light use. I don't even mountaineer much anymore. The seams inside have also started to come apart. My old version of this jacket lasted for at least a decade of hard climbing and treeplanting before I retired it (though it was still in good nick!). Now they're just fashionistas charging a mint for their brand. All my stuff is falling to bits. Not worth the price anymore.

For the price this is a joke.
Sadly time to move on and find someone making good reliable gear again.

Very good quality for mounteneering - trustfull!
Just one winterhike 'till now.
The huge hoody is not easy to adjust - I hardly supported without helmet!

--- review of an older model ---

Yes, the cost of this shell is in the sky, but if you want the maximal durability and waterproofness definitely the best choice!
I also recommend the Beta AR because the functional pockets, but don’t forget, this is the only shell with 100d nylon material!

Very thick and durable. Went on a winter hike with 90 km/h wind. Felt nothing.

I've switched from the Alpha AR to the Alpha SV because the AR just didn't seem durable enough to withstand the abuse of climbing.

I haven't used the SV for long enough to properly assess it's durability, but the fabric feels like I've made the right choice: thick (100 denier GTX Pro is, to my knowledge, among the thickest/most durable you can buy) and with a rubbery feel that just makes the jacket feel bombproof.

So far, I have used the jacket on a couple of ice climbing trips, as well as on a couple of days of winter hiking.

It has performed very well so far.

Yes, the high denier fabric makes it somewhat less breathable/more sweaty when working hard uphill, but when the wind is howling and the rain is pouring down. you'll be glad that you have the SV to retreat into. Plus, with the right layering system (I currently use the Mountain Equipment Redline long sleeve baselayer under a Polartec 100 Micro Fleece, with the SV on top), you don't get that clammy feel that plague hard shells.

So, the Arcteryx Alpha SV is very good at keeping the elements out, however, there are a couple of negative points to make :

- the hood is absolutely humongous: it's way too big and it's pretty much impossible to cinch it down tight enough when you're not wearing a helmet, so in high winds you'll get a lot of flapping
- the zipper is only single way: I understand that most users would put their hard shell on at the beginning of the day (so under their harnesses), but in the UK it's not uncommon for the weather to suddenly turn from blue skies to rain, so it would be nice if you could throw the jacket over your harness and still be able to belay

Other than those two points, I'm happy that I've switched to the Alpha SV and it will be my hard shell of choice for the foreseeable future

--- review of an older model ---

Best jacket I've worn; cannot believe it has taken me so long to purchase one. Won't buy anything else.

--- review of an older model ---