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Petzl - Neox - Belay device tested

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Question from Pat
19.07.2024
Is it suitable for self belaying?

Is it suitable for self belaying

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Adrian (Community) | Customer Service
22.07.2024 10:48

Hi Pat,

GRIGRI, GRIGRI + and NEOX are designed for belaying and lowering. These devices are not designed for self-belayed climbing; they are not effective for this use, for at least the following two reasons:

- The climber must continuously hold the brake side of the rope

Slack must be taken up for each move, because these devices do not move freely enough on the rope to enable climbing without creating slack between the device and the anchor.

Notes:

- For self-belayed climbing on a fixed rope, see the solutions presented in the Self-belaying technical tip at Petzl.com.

- For lead self-belaying, there are techniques that require modifying the device to improve rope feed. Petzl does not authorize this use. Reminder: any modification of PPE outside of Petzl facilities is prohibited.

Please see the following link to further information;

https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Self-belaying-is-not-authorized-for-GRIGRI--GRIGRI-Plus-and-NEOX?ProductName=NEOX

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I never knew I could love a belay device so much

A year ago, when a climbing buddy let me try it, I had no idea how attached I'd become. Now, I own two, because I accidentally left one behind while visiting a friend and couldn't wait til I saw her next, so I bought a second one.
Smoother than an ATC, with assisted braking. Worth the weight, and also the cost.

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22.02.2025

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There are 35 more threads!