Scarpa - Instinct VSR - Climbing shoes

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At a glance

% recommend
98% recommend
Customers say: Good fit
Customers say: Good fit
Customers say: Good traction
Customers say: Good traction
Strong pre-tensioning
Strong pre-tensioning
Greek
Greek
Microfibre
Microfibre
Vibram XS Grip2
Vibram XS Grip2
Wide foot
Wide foot
 g
460 g
Hook-and-loop closure
Hook-and-loop closure
Material information & features
Suitable for:
Level of experience:
expert
Recommended use:
sport climbing, indoor climbing, bouldering
Material type:
microfiber
Closure:
hook-and-loop closure
Sole:
Vibram XS Grip 2
Sole thickness:
3.5 mm
Hardness of sole:
soft
Last:
slightly asymmetrical
Downturn:
slight/medium
Heel tension:
strong
Terrain:
vertical, overhang
Weight:
460 g
Reference size:
pair size in UK 7
Foot shape:
greek
Fit:
wide foot / high volume
Extras:
pull tabs, toe-hook rubber, resoleable
Item No.:
301-0378
Product description

High-performance bouldering and climbing shoes with a soft sole

The Instinct VSR from Scarpa are among the highest-performance shoes. With these shoes on your feet, you can master the toughest projects. They have the same cut as the orange VS version, with the only difference being that they are equipped with a slightly softer and higher traction sole. As a result, they provide a better feel for footholds and are characterised by greater friction.

Range of use

You can definitely wear them for bouldering and shorter sport climbing routes out on the crag, but their slightly softer and more flexible construction is especially beneficial for modern indoor bouldering and climbing. Wherever the best coordination, dynamics and friction are required, the Instinct VSR are at their best. On the other hand, they are less suitable for multi-pitch climbs, as the tight fit can cause pain when worn for long periods of time.

Construction

The shoes boast an asymmetrical last and a medium downturn with an aggressive tip. As a result, they offer a fantastic balance of power transfer, flexibility and precision - perfect for versatile and demanding climbing and bouldering routes. Plus, the strong pre-tensioning in combination with the large toe cap provides excellent hooking qualities. The microfibre and suede upper hugs your foot like a glove and is extremely durable. Meanwhile, the midsole, a Flexan insert, supports your feet especially well when standing on smaller footholds. The special rubber Vibram XS Grip2 sole is sure to convince due to its superior flexibility and grip.

Fit

In addition, the shoes feature a rather narrow heel area and a relatively wide forefoot area with a moderate toe box, which makes them suitable for slightly wider feet with greater volume. Scarpa recommends the shoes especially for those with a Greek foot shape, i.e. with a long second toe.

Conclusion

The Instinct VSR are very high-performance shoes that provide enough power transfer and precision for the toughest of routes and also boast high sensitivity and optimal friction thanks to their soft, high-traction outsoles. All in all, these shoes are high-performance all-rounders with a particular talent for friction and sensitivity.

The advantages at a glance:

  • Climbing and bouldering shoes for technically demanding projects
  • Ideal for sport climbing and bouldering
  • Moderately asymmetrical
  • Medium downturn
  • Strong pre-tensioning
  • Soft and high-traction outsole
  • Large toe cap
  • Also suitable for feet with a larger volume
Bergfreunde expert Cora

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This is what other customers say:
Cormac's profile picture
Good shoe. Perfect for wide feet.

Durable, versatile.
I'd recommend you to size down from the street shoe as they stretch like crazy.

  • Advantages
    Versatile
    Robust
  • Disadvantages
    Stretched at least two sizes
's profile picture

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Kristaps's profile picture
The best I've found for wide feet

Not too many manufacturers offer wide-feet shoes, but Scarpa has done great job imo.
I would recommend going 1-1.5 sizes lower than your street shoe (eu) as they stretch.
My normal size is 42.5 and I got size 42 - I can last 2hrs session without removing them, so at least 1 size less should be taken. Overall great, already got second pair of em.

  • Advantages
    Good grip
    Robust
    High edge stability
    Good fit
's profile picture

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Michael's profile picture
Postive

Wore for roughly 18 months - bit of a break in period but excellent once broken in. Wide toe box and great for heel hooks/edging. Had to get new pair when I wore identical holes in the sole by the big toe. Beginner/intermediate climber so great to see it holding up very well with some shoddy footwork! Have bought a 2nd pair as if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    Robust
    High edge stability
    Versatile
    Good grip
's profile picture

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Conor's profile picture
I absolutely love these shoes!

I've been using these shoes for a few weeks, on indoor bouldering routes and sport routes.

What impresses me is that the design is a little aggressive and feels super-solid on more overhanging routes, but also feels great on slab. What helps is that the rubber seems to stick to anything really well.

For me, if these shoes last a decent amount of time I would definitely buy them again, but since I haven't worn out a pair yet I don't have any idea how long they'll hold up.

  • Advantages
    Versatile
    Good grip
's profile picture

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BRINGME WILLIAM ISNA's profile picture
Great all around shoes

Will not make you a pro

  • Advantages
    Versatile
    Good grip
    Good fit
    Robust
's profile picture

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This is what customers from around the world say:
Svenja's profile picture

75% have found the reviews
by Svenja helpful

Alexander's profile picture

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    Good grip
    High edge stability
Sven's profile picture

76% have found the reviews
by Sven helpful

  • Advantages
    Versatile
    Good fit
    Good grip
    Comfortable
Jelle's profile picture

  • Advantages
    Versatile
    Robust
    Good grip
    Good fit
    High edge stability
Friederike's profile picture

  • Advantages
    Versatile
    Robust
    Good grip
    Good fit
    High edge stability

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