La Sportiva - Otaki - Climbing shoes

La Sportiva - Otaki - Climbing shoes

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At a glance

% recommend
96% recommend
Customers say: Good fit
Customers say: Good fit
Highly asymmetrical
Highly asymmetrical
Leather
Leather
Microfibre
Microfibre
Vibram XS Edge
Vibram XS Edge
Normal foot
Normal foot
 g
470 g
Hook-and-loop closure
Hook-and-loop closure
Material information & features
Suitable for:
Recommended use:
sport climbing, bouldering
Material type:
microfiber, leather
Material note:
contains non-textile parts of animal origin
Closure:
hook-and-loop closure
Sole:
Vibram XS Edge
Sole thickness:
4 mm
Last:
highly asymmetrical
Downturn:
aggressive
Terrain:
vertical, overhang
Weight:
470 g
Reference size:
medium-sized pair
Fit:
normal foot / medium volume
Misc:
Pull-on tabs; P3 system; S-heel
Item No.:
301-0327
Product description

The best support on demanding sport climbing and boulder routes - Otaki by La Sportiva! This climbing shoe has highly asymmetrical lasts and strong downturn, putting much pressure on the big toe for perfect footing even on smaller lasts and tiny wall-features. The special S-heel technology allows for perfect heel hooking. This makes the heel very stable, supportive and adapts to any surface. There is also a structured toe patch for toe hooking. The Vibram sole is highly durable and non-slip on any surface.
The P3 System (Permanent Power Platform) ensures that the downturn is maintained for a long time. The shoe can be precisely adjusted to the foot's shape, via a hook and loop fastener and the loops make it very easy to put it on and take it off again. Otaki by La Sportiva- a high-quality, powerful climbing shoe that looks super cool! ;''

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Praise vs. Criticism
Davor's profile picture

Davor

11.09.2019

Great shoe

I'll buy it again

Advantages
High edge stability
Good fit
VS
Razvan's profile picture

Razvan

25.07.2022

I don't recommend it for limestone

I found this pair of shoes too slippery on limestone. I have been working on a project with a very used pair of shoes (wild climb pantera soft) and on my final attempts, I tried this otaki. They proved to be too slippery. Finally, I get back to WC pantera soft and I managed to send my project despite of been almost broken on the edge. Very disappointed about otaki.

Advantages
Good fit
Disadvantages
poor grip
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This is what other customers say:
Juraj's profile picture
Classic quality

The shoes is an classic in climbing. Good fit and very good rubber. You can't make an mistake when you buy them from overall climbing.

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    Good grip
's profile picture

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Razvan's profile picture
I don't recommend it for limestone

I found this pair of shoes too slippery on limestone. I have been working on a project with a very used pair of shoes (wild climb pantera soft) and on my final attempts, I tried this otaki. They proved to be too slippery. Finally, I get back to WC pantera soft and I managed to send my project despite of been almost broken on the edge. Very disappointed about otaki.

  • Advantages
    Good fit
  • Disadvantages
    poor grip
's profile picture

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Mischa (Community)'s profile picture
Mischa (Community) | Customer Service
26.07.2022 12:41

Hey Razvan, give them some time to break in. Initially the Otaki is very stiff but with a few sessions it will develop some more edge conformity which is better for polished lime. These are primarily a stiff edging shoe so they do also need to be loaded in a different way to softer shoes - but I'd say it's primarily a matter of breaking them in as opposed to technique. Hope this helps :-)

Razvan
02.08.2022 10:37

Hi Mischa,

thanks for the free advice about technique. Limestone is not only stiff edge climbing, actually is more about rounded footholds where the smearing is likely more indicated technique to be used.

Razvan's profile picture

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's profile picture
's profile picture

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Vadims's profile picture
Great shoe for indoor and outdoor climbing

Bought this to replace Skwama that proved too soft for outdoor climbs, and Otaki works great both on the rock and indoor.

  • Advantages
    Good grip
    Versatile
    Good fit
's profile picture

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Tiago's profile picture
Excellent climbing shoe

Excellent. Easy to on-off due to velcro straps, sensitive, agressive and confortable. They edge like katakis but are more confortable on same size. Fit my wide forefoot perfectly. Probably my new go-to shoe"

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    Versatile
    Robust
    High edge stability
's profile picture

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mare's profile picture
Sure footing

This shoes give you confidence in your footings.

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Good fit
    Robust
's profile picture

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Davor's profile picture
Great shoe

I'll buy it again

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Good fit
's profile picture

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Imre's profile picture
Best sport climbing show for my feet so far

I bought these as a Katana replacement and I'm not disappointed. Even though it's stiffer and more agressive, the fit is extremely good for my slightly wider feet. Very short break-in period, only little strech and fantastic performance. The heel is also a big upgrade compared with the Katana. Nevertheless, I would never take this shoe to multipitch or alpine climbs (in that sense, the KAtana was more versatile).

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Good fit
    Robust
's profile picture

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Petar's profile picture
Stiff and stable

I looked for the hardest shoe out there because of a foot join inflammation which caused me to loose 50% mobility in my big toe. Sizing is a bit like the Solutions. I got 0.5 size bigger because of the issues i mentioned and it is awesome. Super good for edges and tiny placements. Average for slabs but i cirertly am unable to properly test. Super good foot support and not flexible which i love!

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Robust
    Good fit
  • Disadvantages
    not great on slabs
's profile picture

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This is what customers from around the world say:
Thorsten's profile picture

  • Advantages
    Robust
    Durable
    Versatile
    Good fit
Richard's profile picture
Good... but stiff

The shoes themselves stick well, however have next to no give. I was only using for bouldering and indoor lead, stuck it out for 2 months 3-4 times a week and then had to change as it was too painful. I ended up getting Skwama's instead which are much more forgiving. I went down 1.5 uk sizes as was recommended with both.

  • Advantages
    Robust
    High edge stability
  • Disadvantages
    Not comfortable

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