La Sportiva - Otaki - Climbing shoes

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At a glance

% recommend
97% recommend
Customers say: Good fit
Customers say: Good fit
Highly asymmetrical
Highly asymmetrical
Slight pre-tensioning
Slight pre-tensioning
Greek
Greek
Egyptian
Egyptian
Leather
Leather
Microfibre
Microfibre
Vibram XS Edge
Vibram XS Edge
Normal foot
Normal foot
 g
470 g
Hook-and-loop closure
Hook-and-loop closure
Material information & features
Suitable for:
Level of experience:
advanced, expert
Recommended use:
sport climbing, bouldering
Material type:
microfiber, leather
Material note:
contains non-textile parts of animal origin
Closure:
hook-and-loop closure
Sole:
Vibram XS Edge
Sole thickness:
4 mm
Hardness of sole:
medium hard
Last:
highly asymmetrical
Downturn:
aggressive
Heel tension:
slight/medium
Terrain:
vertical, overhang
Weight:
470 g
Reference size:
medium-sized pair
Foot shape:
greek, egyptian
Fit:
normal foot / medium volume
Extras:
resoleable
Misc:
Pull-on tabs; P3 system; S-heel
Item No.:
301-0327
Product description

The best support on demanding sport climbing and boulder routes - Otaki by La Sportiva! This climbing shoe has highly asymmetrical lasts and strong downturn, putting much pressure on the big toe for perfect footing even on smaller lasts and tiny wall-features. The special S-heel technology allows for perfect heel hooking. This makes the heel very stable, supportive and adapts to any surface. There is also a structured toe patch for toe hooking. The Vibram sole is highly durable and non-slip on any surface.
The P3 System (Permanent Power Platform) ensures that the downturn is maintained for a long time. The shoe can be precisely adjusted to the foot's shape, via a hook and loop fastener and the loops make it very easy to put it on and take it off again. Otaki by La Sportiva- a high-quality, powerful climbing shoe that looks super cool! ;''

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Praise vs. Criticism
Davor's profile picture

Davor

11.09.2019

Great shoe

I'll buy it again

Advantages
High edge stability
Good fit
VS
Razvan's profile picture

Razvan

25.07.2022

I don't recommend it for limestone

I found this pair of shoes too slippery on limestone. I have been working on a project with a very used pair of shoes (wild climb pantera soft) and on my final attempts, I tried this otaki. They proved to be too slippery. Finally, I get back to WC pantera soft and I managed to send my project despite of been almost broken on the edge. Very disappointed about otaki.

Advantages
Good fit
Disadvantages
poor grip
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This is what other customers say:
Razvan's profile picture
I don't recommend it for limestone

I found this pair of shoes too slippery on limestone. I have been working on a project with a very used pair of shoes (wild climb pantera soft) and on my final attempts, I tried this otaki. They proved to be too slippery. Finally, I get back to WC pantera soft and I managed to send my project despite of been almost broken on the edge. Very disappointed about otaki.

  • Advantages
    Good fit
  • Disadvantages
    poor grip
's profile picture

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Mischa (Community)'s profile picture
Mischa (Community) | Customer Service
26.07.2022 12, 41

Hey Razvan, give them some time to break in. Initially the Otaki is very stiff but with a few sessions it will develop some more edge conformity which is better for polished lime. These are primarily a stiff edging shoe so they do also need to be loaded in a different way to softer shoes - but I'd say it's primarily a matter of breaking them in as opposed to technique. Hope this helps :-)

Razvan
02.08.2022 10, 37

Hi Mischa,

thanks for the free advice about technique. Limestone is not only stiff edge climbing, actually is more about rounded footholds where the smearing is likely more indicated technique to be used.

Razvan's profile picture
Aliaksandr
14.02.2023 14, 23

Hello Razvan,

Could you kindly elaborate on the size you've chosen? Especially if you previously had any of la sportiva shoes such as kataki or katana lace. TIA

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Roman's profile picture

The thread was edited on 21.03.23

Amazing, versatile shoe

I have climbed with 7 different climbing shoes and have tried on many many more. I have wide feed with relatively small heels, so my most common issue is that the shoe either has a saggy heel, or is too narrow. This is probably the best shoe I have had so far - it is a bit stiff, and normally I prefer softer shoes, but despite that, this shoe seems to perform amazingly on all types of rock and types of climbing (overhang/vertical), as well as indoors both on roped climbs and boulder problems. It does the job for me on slabs as well, but I don't climb many "hardcore" super smeary slabs, and I would guess it might not be very good for that.

I usually wear EU43, and size 41.5 of this shoe fits me perfectly(took a fairly long time to break in though).

I'll have it re-soled soon and am considering getting a second pair just so I have another while the original is being repaired.

One thing to keep in mind that it is a performance shoe that is certainly not comfortable to walk in / wear for a long time, so I would not recommend it on long multi-pitches.

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    High edge stability
    Versatile
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Juraj's profile picture
Classic quality

The shoes is an classic in climbing. Good fit and very good rubber. You can't make an mistake when you buy them from overall climbing.

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    Good grip
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Vadims's profile picture
Great shoe for indoor and outdoor climbing

Bought this to replace Skwama that proved too soft for outdoor climbs, and Otaki works great both on the rock and indoor.

  • Advantages
    Good grip
    Versatile
    Good fit
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Tiago's profile picture
Excellent climbing shoe

Excellent. Easy to on-off due to velcro straps, sensitive, agressive and confortable. They edge like katakis but are more confortable on same size. Fit my wide forefoot perfectly. Probably my new go-to shoe"

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    Versatile
    Robust
    High edge stability
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mare's profile picture
Sure footing

This shoes give you confidence in your footings.

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Good fit
    Robust
's profile picture

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Davor's profile picture
Great shoe

I'll buy it again

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Good fit
's profile picture

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Imre's profile picture
Best sport climbing show for my feet so far

I bought these as a Katana replacement and I'm not disappointed. Even though it's stiffer and more agressive, the fit is extremely good for my slightly wider feet. Very short break-in period, only little strech and fantastic performance. The heel is also a big upgrade compared with the Katana. Nevertheless, I would never take this shoe to multipitch or alpine climbs (in that sense, the KAtana was more versatile).

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Good fit
    Robust
's profile picture

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Aliaksandr's profile picture
Aliaksandr
14.02.2023 14, 26

Hello Imre! What size did you purchase? Also, if you could mention you Katanas size as well. Many thanks in advance.

Imre
14.02.2023 16, 11

Hey Aliaksandr, I wear 41.5 Otakis and Skwamas and I'm happy with them. My street shoe size is 43-44.

I used to wear 41.5 Katanas but that was the old model (before the design change - I had the blue-green one). After the change, the new Katanas felt larger - so I'd probably pick a 41 Katana as a comparable sized shoe.

Imre's profile picture
Aliaksandr
14.02.2023 17, 07

Thanks, mate!

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Petar's profile picture
Stiff and stable

I looked for the hardest shoe out there because of a foot join inflammation which caused me to loose 50% mobility in my big toe. Sizing is a bit like the Solutions. I got 0.5 size bigger because of the issues i mentioned and it is awesome. Super good for edges and tiny placements. Average for slabs but i cirertly am unable to properly test. Super good foot support and not flexible which i love!

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Robust
    Good fit
  • Disadvantages
    not great on slabs
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This is what customers from around the world say:
Andre's profile picture

69% have found the reviews
by Andre helpful

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    Versatile
    Good grip