4.78 of 5 starsLa Sportiva - Otaki - Climbing shoes
La Sportiva - Otaki - Climbing shoes
At a glance
- Suitable for:
- Recommended use:
- Sport climbing, Bouldering
- Material type:
- microfiber, leather
- Material note:
- contains non-textile parts of animal origin
- Closure:
- hook-and-loop closure
- Sole:
- Vibram XS Edge
- Sole thickness:
- 4 mm
- Last:
- highly asymmetrical
- Downturn:
- aggressive
- Terrain:
- vertical, overhang
- Weight:
- 470 g
- Reference size:
- medium-sized pair
- Fit:
- normal foot / medium volume
- Misc:
- Pull-on tabs; P3 system; S-heel
- Item No.:
- 301-0327
I don't recommend it for limestone
I found this pair of shoes too slippery on limestone. I have been working on a project with a very used pair of shoes (wild climb pantera soft) and on my final attempts, I tried this otaki. They proved to be too slippery. Finally, I get back to WC pantera soft and I managed to send my project despite of been almost broken on the edge. Very disappointed about otaki.
- Advantages
- Good fit
- Disadvantages
- poor grip
- Recommended use
- Sport climbing
I found this pair of shoes too slippery on limestone. I have been working on a project with a very used pair of shoes (wild climb pantera soft) and on my final attempts, I tried this otaki. They proved to be too slippery. Finally, I get back to WC pantera soft and I managed to send my project despite of been almost broken on the edge. Very disappointed about otaki.
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- Advantages
- Good fit
-
- Disadvantages
- poor grip
-
- Recommended use
- Sport climbing
Hey Razvan, give them some time to break in. Initially the Otaki is very stiff but with a few sessions it will develop some more edge conformity which is better for polished lime. These are primarily a stiff edging shoe so they do also need to be loaded in a different way to softer shoes - but I'd say it's primarily a matter of breaking them in as opposed to technique. Hope this helps :-)
Bought this to replace Skwama that proved too soft for outdoor climbs, and Otaki works great both on the rock and indoor.
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- Advantages
- Good grip
- Versatile
- Good fit
-
- Recommended use
- Indoor climbing
- Sport climbing
Excellent. Easy to on-off due to velcro straps, sensitive, agressive and confortable. They edge like katakis but are more confortable on same size. Fit my wide forefoot perfectly. Probably my new go-to shoe"
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- Advantages
- Good fit
- Versatile
- Robust
- High edge stability
-
- Recommended use
- Big wall
- Sport
I bought these as a Katana replacement and I'm not disappointed. Even though it's stiffer and more agressive, the fit is extremely good for my slightly wider feet. Very short break-in period, only little strech and fantastic performance. The heel is also a big upgrade compared with the Katana. Nevertheless, I would never take this shoe to multipitch or alpine climbs (in that sense, the KAtana was more versatile).
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- Advantages
- High edge stability
- Good fit
- Robust
-
- Recommended use
- Sport climbing
- Bouldering
- Indoor climbing
I looked for the hardest shoe out there because of a foot join inflammation which caused me to loose 50% mobility in my big toe. Sizing is a bit like the Solutions. I got 0.5 size bigger because of the issues i mentioned and it is awesome. Super good for edges and tiny placements. Average for slabs but i cirertly am unable to properly test. Super good foot support and not flexible which i love!
-
- Advantages
- High edge stability
- Robust
- Good fit
-
- Disadvantages
- not great on slabs
-
- Recommended use
- Sport climbing
- Indoor climbing
- Bouldering
The shoes themselves stick well, however have next to no give. I was only using for bouldering and indoor lead, stuck it out for 2 months 3-4 times a week and then had to change as it was too painful. I ended up getting Skwama's instead which are much more forgiving. I went down 1.5 uk sizes as was recommended with both.
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- Advantages
- Robust
- High edge stability
-
- Disadvantages
- Not comfortable
-
- Recommended use
- Indoor climbing
- Bouldering
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